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  #1  
Old 03-15-2007, 12:46 PM
ShaleDC ShaleDC is offline
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Default What about wet-sanding foam?

I have to spline sand the foam for my turtleback, prior to laying up glass. I really hate sanding all this foam, it gets all over the place and makes a huge mess. Is there any reason that I can't wet-sand foam? That would cut down on the dust.
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  #2  
Old 03-15-2007, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaleDC View Post
I have to spline sand the foam for my turtleback, prior to laying up glass. I really hate sanding all this foam, it gets all over the place and makes a huge mess. Is there any reason that I can't wet-sand foam? That would cut down on the dust.
As long as you let it fully dry out before you do a layup I dont think it would hurt anything.
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:06 PM
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Your wood form won't like it, I would not do it, running water needed - just a different, probably bigger mess
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Old 03-15-2007, 02:49 PM
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There were times Randi aggrevated the crap out of me literally chasing my sanding block with a shop vac but in reality it did keep some of the nasty urethane dust to manageble levels. More importantly when a bit of micro breaks loose you might catch the little monster before it wreaks havok with your foam.
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Old 03-15-2007, 02:54 PM
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Dust is right. Your form uses MDF which resists water better than particle board, but probably not worth it to end up with any shift in shape. Do you have an 18 inch airfile with a dust collector? It should be good enough, the sanding of the foam is mostly a coarse fairing anyway. You will do the finish fairing when the laminate is complete.

As you are pretty aware of by now, this is also one of the reasons to build in a female form. You can fair the foam on the exterior surface after you have a rigid internal skin, where wetsanding wont have such an impact. Ohwell.
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Old 03-15-2007, 02:55 PM
ShaleDC ShaleDC is offline
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What I really need is an attachment for the Fein tool that I can use to route out just 1/16" of the micro joint, prior to sanding.
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2007, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaleDC View Post
What I really need is an attachment for the Fein tool that I can use to route out just 1/16" of the micro joint, prior to sanding.
Well, if you are rolling in bucks, three of the flat blades ($$$) would be 1/16" thick and do a nice job for you? Sort of like a "Fein Dado" without the whirling trauma.
You can fill the gap afterwards with micro that you have added alcohol with, double the amount of glass balloons as dry micro and it will sand about the same as foam though we mask the area before we fill to reduce the spread.
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2007, 04:11 PM
Wayne Hicks Wayne Hicks is offline
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The water won't harm the foam. But it will make the dust gather and coagulate. It will roll up into nuggets and affect your sanding job.

Get a good resirator. Get used to it. There's MUCHO more in the futre.
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  #9  
Old 03-15-2007, 04:23 PM
ShaleDC ShaleDC is offline
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Oh well, dust lets me know I'm accomplishing something. If I have the stomach for it, I may finish fairing the turtleback tonight. We'll see.
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  #10  
Old 03-15-2007, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaleDC View Post
Oh well, dust lets me know I'm accomplishing something. If I have the stomach for it, I may finish fairing the turtleback tonight. We'll see.
i use a 1/2 flush bit in a trim router with a 3" base set at 1/6" depth.
i then run over the seems, sand a wile then run over them again and sand just until i hit the mico again,,,,repeat
i do the same thing for shaping some of the foam by setting the depth at "0" and run over big spots very fast. it gets the high spot down to almost nothing then its a breeze to hand sand the rest .
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