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  #16  
Old 01-22-2006, 09:29 PM
David Staten's Avatar
David Staten David Staten is offline
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Location: KEFD, Houston Area, Texas
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Default Short plane day this time...

Well, most of todays "plane day" occurred at my breakfast/dining room table which has been an avionics workbench for a few weeks.

I finally sat down and wired up the other KX-170/175 tray in identical livery to the first one (with prewire for GS/DME) with all the colors and sizes matching between the two.. Our first budget upgrade in radios will likely be Michel MX-170's and they will simply slide in/out of the chassis as wired.

Still waiting on the IN-380A VOR/LOC indicator (note to John Slade- the 350 series are originally collins.. the 380 series were originally sperry/ARC) that i won on Ebay.. I learned something new. the indicators use a 3ATI sleeve which is an industry standard item.. translation.. its prolly for sale NEW rather than available used. They also use 25 pin Dsub connectors (which run 50 cents at the local puter shop or something like that)

The Craig Davies water pump and controller are enroute from Hoerr Racing, and an alternator relocation bracket (to the plug side of engine) was obtained from an RX7 mod shop. Replaced the front hub and pulley with a billet/milled underdrive replacement, and I have a dual pulley for the alternator when I get it. AND, just won a "key switch" for a "twin engine airplane" off ebay. Gosh I love it when people just dont know what they have and what they are selling.. they presumed cause there was a L and an R on the switch (for mags) that it was for L and R engines. I've seen radio's that run 11-33 volts listed as 28V models, and who knows what else. Part of me feels for the guys who dont know what they are selling.. but they other part says.. what they dont know wont cost me.... any ways..

Took both the KX-175B and the KY-196B and ONE of the prewired tray connectors up to the airport along with some other goodies (12v lighter plug, antenna and a test board that has a terminal strip, speakers and headset jacks) and did a smoke test on my two ancient radios. They passed: they kept the smoke in, and both received well. Ground could hear me well too. However, they kept looking for the Velocity that was calling, and all they saw was a red truck.. darn the luck

Re-took some measurements, and while its cozy behind the panel, I really think i can make everything fit where it needs to.

Admired the IVO in its preliminary mounting on the PSRU. It will need to come back off again, but just seeing it up there inspires me (and Chris, so he says).
On a more important note, I called my satellite tv provider and added another reciever to my "spare bedroom". Combining this reciever (and card) with the TV at the "Spare bedroom" gives us satellite TV (and XM radio) at the hangar. I have a small workstand that has the dish on it, with alignment marks painted on the ramp outside the "spare bedroom". When we go to the "spare bedroom to work on the plane, we put the dish and stand outside aligned with the marks.. picks up every time. We got the idea from our next door neighbors who have the same setup on THEIR "spare bedroom". Only real limitation is dont do anything that requires the reciever to call headquarters, like order pay per view anything.. other than that, it will work fine.. and you can watch CNN or the game at the hangar.


Dave
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  #17  
Old 08-21-2006, 10:54 AM
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David Staten David Staten is offline
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Default Resurrecting this thread.. updates..

I ended up awake and off on nights again, and have decided to make a major update to the thread.

Many pictures of what has happened are available on Chris's website (at least up through last week or so 8/18/06) www.lonestarvelocity.com, and other threads have been developed that have kept up with what I've been doing for the past months (avionics, for one).

Last night, I went out around 9pm with the second wave of fittings for the intake and engine. I say second wave, because I made one big order, most of it arrived, and then I had to come back and make a second stab at plumbing things (MP lines, Fuel fittings, arranging the Fuel Pumps, Filter, etc). Much of my time was spent making short hose runs and couplings for the Fuel pumps. My fuel pumps have nipples, instead of AN fittings. I would prefer fittings and may revisit this VERY soon, at the risk of wasting two new pumps. AN hoses are a *&&(**&#$ to do by hand.. lemme tell ya.

Noticed that in spite of having ground down an iron tab on the front iron, there was still physical interference between it and the mistral intake runner. Some quality time with a side grinder fixed this once and for all - i need to come back and prime/paint the bare spot now.

Connected the two heater hoses off the back iron nipples together in a tee, with a pressure transducer on the T as well. This will be a high point bleed for the block when cold, to get air out.

Also removed the old PSRU oil feed line that I had made last year. The original scheme involved an AN 4 hard-line to a steel fitting on an aluminum bypass block that I had fashioned, that set on top of the oil filter pedestal. The new mistral intake has a mounting pad and bypass block of its own that prevents the use of my fabricated aluminum block and its AN4 fitting. I had previously ordered the 1/8" BSPT (british standard pipe thread) adaper for the Stock oil pressure port on the rear iron of the 13B. I placed a 90 degree AN4 nipple onto this adapter, then proceded to run a fresh AN4 hardline to feel oil to the PSRU. Oil pressure will be measured at its entrance to the engine (AN 10 fitting with pressure port), and I have a temp sensor on the outlet of the oil filter for monitoring post-cooler temps.

Came back home for a bit, around 11ish and by 3 am had decided to go back out and get some more work done. This time the mission was the brush-holder for the IVO prop. (in flight electric adjustable). My previous incarnation was NEVER intended to fly, and was only if I ended up with engine start earlier this year (which has yet to occur). The old one consisted of angle aluminum, threaded rod and a bunch of bolts/standoffs. Not very elegant and I was actually embarrased to have people see it. I had already mounted the IVO's prop base with the included locknuts, so I had to unbolt this contraption slowly, with vise grips, (it was secured using 3 of the RWS RD-1B PSRU bearing retainer ring bolts - recessed hex head jobbies). This restored the retainer ring assembly to its previously stock appearance as well.

At the beginning of the month I had obtained some plate aluminum out of the scrap pile at a fab shop.. about 24 x 24" square, 1/8 thick, weldable (6061 t6 I think, but not sure), that originally was to be part of the radiator mount fabrication. I found a racing/marine fab shop to manage the aluminum welding with their own material, so the plate was surplus. After designing a template with foam "poster" material, I marked out two matching crescent arms on the plate and trimmed it with a pneumatic hacksaw. After pop riveting the two together, I made them identical with the hacksaw and belt sander, then proceded to mount them through one of the 4 stiffener ridges on the RD-1B PSRU. The stiffener has a slight taper as it procedes outboard, so the two crescent arms are slightly canted toward each other.

I matched the two crescent arms together with a BIG set of vise grips, then bolted it together, forming a triangular rigid structure. On the end of it, I placed the IVO brushes flush with a pop rivet on a piece of aluminum angle, then match drilled/bolted it all together. The 1/8" aluminum crescent arm/tapered structure is VERY rigid, and when I pulled on it to check deflection forces, I noticed that the entire plane was moveable (wingtips jiggled) with the force transmitted through the crescent arm. Should be durable enough for flight. I need to re-visit the mounting with locknuts, rather than home depot bolts, but it looks like that problem is solved for good now.

The brushes WILL wear, but when it happens, I will unbolt the AL angle/ brushholder combination, drill out the rivet, pop-rivet the New one, and then re-bolt the new assembly. As put together, this will also permit the use of a spinner and backplate, which I intend to add soon. As it is now, this should be a 3-5 minute job without having to remove the cowl, in the future.

Chris has gotten most of the headliner material installed on the roof.. and we are in the process of building back up the center keel SOMEWHAT to support a throttle quadrant. It's not as high as the stock velocity center keel, so we have room for hips to spill over near the seat bases. We have toyed with optimum throttle placement from an ergonomic standpoint and Chris and I seem to have come to a workable compromise that has neither of us reaching excessively. Carpeting has been trimmed and is currently at a shop having finishing touches placed on it (and making floormats out of leftover material).

Currently Chris is fashioning sidewalls and an aft bulkhead cover out of posterboard foam material - its light, trimmable, and about 1/8"-3/16" thick.. substantial enough to have some rigidity. A Sump tank shelf is in tentative design right now, with a plank and PVC uprights serving as the template. We may need to re-route/tuck the control cables - they emerge from the center keel before reaching the sump tank, and pass outboard, curving up and OVER this shelf. I'm not very keep on having control cables able to be impinged upon by baggage behind the seat/on the shelf - Shoulding take much to relocate them under the shelf.

Avionics wise.. As mentioned in the DIY avionics Blues thread.. Nav Com 2 is wired in on the rack, as is the transponder, the KLN-89B IFR GPS, Glideslope reciever 2, the AT-50A transponder and the Terra Tri-Nav C (which just arrived the other day).

The Dynon is in the rack, but havent terminated the wires yet.. that will have to be in the plane unfortunately.. Nav Com 1 is ordered and enroute from Eastern Avionics (Another kx-125 - this one at Osh Special pricing - just under $1900). The second GS reciever (KN-75) arrived the other day as well, and its ready to be mated to a Terra Tri-Nav (not a C - so it doesnt do GPS, only VOR/GS). I told Chris that once the second KX 125 arrives, the tray will be bolted into the empty spot on the rack, and then I will remove ALL the backplates/wires/etc and bring the rack (only) assembly up there to do final fitting into the instrument bay. Switch locations and breaker locations/final wiring scheme has yet to be determined.

Left to buy:

Dynon pitot tube and digital to serial encoder.

Ivo Constant Speed Controller module - I've heard mixed feedback on this part - ANYONE know of alternatives????

Throttle Cable - and determine run/placement..

Radiator Overflow bottle.

Grounding blocks - Matronics? Forest of tabs kinda thing.

Heavy cable runs - ground and hot

Oil injection tank and bypass block (may
defer for now, and premix)

I've got to admit that in the avionics department I have slipped toward "perfecting" things rather than just getting it done.. but this has become such a chore that I don't want to have to do it again anytime soon, so I am trying to get it as close to "perfect" for Light IFR/Serious XC navigation as I can.. with a panel content that I am accustomed to for that mission. I say this because Chris (and I's ) driving philosophy has been to get a FLYING plane that may not be quite "perfect" rather than have a hangar queen that never flies because it's not quite perfect enough yet - diminishing returns - apple polishing.. whatever you want to call it. This has been one area where I've strayed from that philosophy and I thank Chris for being patient and humoring me here.

We should be getting together tonight or wednesday to acutally mount the radiator for good, drilling holes in the firewall, then once thats done, the rest of the "stuff" can be fit onto the firewall. Getting closer to turning dead dinosaurs into decibels.

Pic 1 - new PSRU oil feed
Pic 2 - Front Iron tab vs Intake runner - latest shot
Pic 3 - Heater hose plumbing and standoff
Pic 4 and 5 - prop brushholder assembly
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Last edited by David Staten : 08-21-2006 at 11:15 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2006, 03:46 PM
SteveWrightNZ SteveWrightNZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Staten
Ivo Constant Speed Controller module - I've heard mixed feedback on this part - ANYONE know of alternatives????
http://www.airmasterpropellers.com/wa.asp?idWebPage=3474

Very nice.. you got a lot done. Brace that PSRU oil line, or it will fly and crack.


S

Last edited by SteveWrightNZ : 08-21-2006 at 03:51 PM. Reason: added oil line comment
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2006, 06:05 PM
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John Slade John Slade is offline
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Getting there, Dave. Isn't it amazing how many details there are to deal with?

Here are a couple of comments in case they help...
As Steve says - brace that PSRU oil line. In fact, both of them. I used those rubber lined clamps attached to the redrive bolts.

I know that Mistral intake was expensive, and it sure looks good, but I spotted one thing - the clamps for the flexible hose seem to be very close to the join. Is there a ridge around the end of each pipe to hold the clamp and stop the boost pressure blowing the pipes off? 10 PSI of boost will blow off just about anything that aint welded down. (ask me how I now this ) If the mistral intake is tested for NA and you're boosting, you might need to secure the pipes better.

The brush holder looks good, but I'd be suprised if you can get a spinner backplate in there. The bracket would have to curve downward a lot more for mine to fit. Oh, and those bolts holding the brush bracket together - are you going to safety wire them?

Just a fewmore items to install and Texas will be hearing the ZZZZ noise.

Last edited by John Slade : 08-21-2006 at 07:13 PM.
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2006, 06:16 PM
Buly Buly is offline
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Dave, this prop brush bracket looks a lot like one i have seen somewhere before? : Looks good.
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  #21  
Old 08-21-2006, 08:03 PM
David Staten's Avatar
David Staten David Staten is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Slade
Getting there, Dave. Isn't it amazing how many details there are to deal with?

Here are a couple of comments in case they help...
As Steve says - brace that PSRU oil line. In fact, both of them. I used those rubber lined clamps attached to the redrive bolts.
Its stainless steel.. are you guys sure about the cracking?? The stock turbo oil feed line (steel) runs almost 18 inches and it doesnt have much other support. If thats the case (cracking succeptible), I will make a soft line and be done with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Slade
I know that Mistral intake was expensive, and it sure looks good, but I spotted one thing - the clamps for the flexible hose seem to be very close to the join. Is there a ridge around the end of each pipe to hold the clamp and stop the boost pressure blowing the pipes off? 10 PSI of boost will blow off just about anything that aint welded down. (ask me how I now this ) If the mistral intake is tested for NA and you're boosting, you might need to secure the pipes better.
The pipes physically cannot come out as installed - there is maybe 1/8" to 1/4" headspace between the pipe ends underneath those silicone rubber sleeves, and the ends of the cast aluminum has a tapered barb/bead on it. Yea.. we are going to run NA right now.. but boost will come later.


Quote:
Originally Posted by John Slade
The brush holder looks good, but I'd be suprised if you can get a spinner backplate in there. The bracket would have to curve downward a lot more for mine to fit. Oh, and those bolts holding the brush bracket together - are you going to safety wire them?

Just a fewmore items to install and Texas will be hearing the ZZZZ noise.
To acknowledge Buly.. yea.. I ripped you off.. but I made an improvement too , using two plates instead of one plate and one sheet metal piece.

John: As I mentioned in the original post, this is put together with home depot bolts for now, and I will either come back with high grade hardware and Nylocks or AN's and wires/cotters/castlenuts. The whole IVO prop is held on with Nylocks, so I'm guessing I can get away with Nylocks for this too.

Thanks for the feedback guys!
Dave
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  #22  
Old 08-21-2006, 08:15 PM
Buly Buly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Staten
To acknowledge Buly.. yea.. I ripped you off.. but I made an improvement too , using two plates instead of one plate and one sheet metal piece.

Thanks for the feedback guys!
Dave
Pay closer attention Dave. Mine has two plates also
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  #23  
Old 08-21-2006, 08:22 PM
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John Slade John Slade is offline
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Quote:
are you guys sure about the cracking??
Yep. You get different vibrations in a plane. From the prop, for example. Just about anything has the potential to crack from harmonic resonance if not supported every 8 inches or so to raise the frequency. I'm not sure what the correct distance is, but 18" is way too long - besides, a cracked oil feed in a car is just inconvienient....

Quote:
put together with home depot bolts for now
Famous last words.

Yes. Good nylocks should do fine.
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2006, 09:14 PM
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David Staten David Staten is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buly
Pay closer attention Dave. Mine has two plates also
Ok.. fine.. then how about this..

"Mine is better cause I said so"

Imitation is the best form of flattery.. Thanks for the idea, Buly!
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  #25  
Old 08-21-2006, 09:43 PM
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Yous guys putin the rotary in - very impressive but the amount of work and figurin it seems to take is very scary
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  #26  
Old 08-21-2006, 10:57 PM
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John Slade John Slade is offline
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Quote:
the amount of work and figurin it seems to take is very scary
Not scary, but certainly challenging. But at least the rotary and subi guys have flying installations to copy..... Being the first - now THAT'S scary.
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  #27  
Old 08-22-2006, 02:28 AM
SteveWrightNZ SteveWrightNZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Staten
Its stainless steel.. are you guys sure about the cracking??
Stainless is very hard, but its brittle too. Brace short pipework at a 5/8 point, not in the middle. In the end, it doesnt matter how strong any item is, if it has a resonant point then it will break. I would be tempted to use steel pipework, unless there was a very good reason. I have no stainless pipework on my vehicles.

S
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  #28  
Old 08-22-2006, 02:38 AM
SteveWrightNZ SteveWrightNZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Staten
The whole IVO prop is held on with Nylocks, so I'm guessing I can get away with Nylocks for this too.
There is only one problem with nylocks, and that is you cannot do them up real tight or you will strip or break them.

Likely, the prop is not supposed to be done up real tight, but there is no substitute for a grade 11 nut and bolt tightened using the torque-turn method. Also, these nuts and bolts are available cheaply at your corner engineering shop.

S
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  #29  
Old 08-22-2006, 11:42 AM
argoldman argoldman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveWrightNZ
There is only one problem with nylocks, and that is you cannot do them up real tight or you will strip or break them.

Likely, the prop is not supposed to be done up real tight, but there is no substitute for a grade 11 nut and bolt tightened using the torque-turn method. Also, these nuts and bolts are available cheaply at your corner engineering shop.

S
Each bolt/nut has a specific torque specification for proper and predictable strength. Nyloc nuts are no different in these characteristics. and should never strip when torqued properly

However since the nyloc nuts use a nylon, or sometimes fiber retainer, they are not appropriate in a high heat area, such as firewall forward (or backward.) Perhaps the prop runs cooler, however it would seem that heat treansmitted through the crankshaft would heat the bolt making the nut less than secure.
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  #30  
Old 08-22-2006, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argoldman
However since the nyloc nuts use a nylon, or sometimes fiber retainer, they are not appropriate in a high heat area, such as firewall forward (or backward.)
Tanks AR - that is what I thought - I WILL remember it
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