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  #16  
Old 04-17-2007, 01:11 PM
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I found this old photo of myself on somebody's web site (back when I was doing training and maintenance on L39s). Makes a good avatar.

I wouldn't do the airfoils until you get some experience under your belt. Its better to learn on the straight easy pieces than th critical curved pieces.

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  #17  
Old 04-17-2007, 01:23 PM
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Agreed........plus, I won't have to worry about dinging up the wings/winglets.
I have a lot of storage area but just the same.....
I know I can be careful but there is always a chance I'll screw something up
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  #18  
Old 04-17-2007, 02:30 PM
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The vertical stabs come in there own storage case - after you hot wire them out, they can be stored in the off cuts
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2007, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve parkins View Post
its just a big pad.....7x12 or so and about 25 bid thick.
but you need the gear to install it, but if you start asking for it now you'll have it in time for the lower strake cover.......2015
you need the gear to install "the gear" not the spar.
that was a joke. (jd needs 40k to run a set) so the first 10 orders will have to wait for 10 more. he say it was like pulling theeth to get cash form us canarins.
you need the lower skin on then you need the gear to mount to the spar, then you cut the hole for the leg to fit into the lower skin, then you glass in the wheel well, then cover. i have the hard points in mine but the jury is now out, thinkin bow now, (after looking at jacks) i just want done.

i think i got plans to build a stock cozy 4 some where, they say you can do it in 4000 hours any body read them ?
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2007, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
(jd needs 40k to run a set) so the first 10 orders will have to wait for 10 more.
That's good to know. I will consider myself fortunate to have made this decision (and ordered) before I started cutting foam.

Oh......by the way (for anyone considering buy the infinity R/G......My understanding is that JD has 19 orders currently so if you don't want to wait with the rest of the next twenty.............
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  #21  
Old 04-18-2007, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
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.....My understanding is that JD has 19 orders currently so if you don't want to wait with the rest of the next twenty.............
Did that come from JD or another source?
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  #22  
Old 04-18-2007, 09:18 AM
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.....from a totally unreliable source........
I'm going to check with JD after Sun n' Fun.
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  #23  
Old 04-20-2007, 09:31 AM
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I registered N200LZ.com last night which is where I intend to host my experiences building my plane. Some have expressed some interest in my project pricing database and I will make it available as a download from there.

I'm cutting foam for chapter 4 this weekend and hope to get my vacuum bag set up for this first layup.

Perhaps someone who is currently using this technique can recommend a good setting to set my vacuum switch to.
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2007, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMann View Post
I registered N200LZ.com last night which is where I intend to host my experiences building my plane. Some have expressed some interest in my project pricing database and I will make it available as a download from there.

I'm cutting foam for chapter 4 this weekend and hope to get my vacuum bag set up for this first layup.

Perhaps someone who is currently using this technique can recommend a good setting to set my vacuum switch to.
I use 15-16 inHg for mine, which is 50psi input on my venturi vacuum generator.but yours may well be different.

I'd suggest doing test layups with weighed cloth for a known area (I did about six of the 10x16 six ply practice layups, made them 12x18 then trimed to 10x16 for weighing, and then calculated my resin/glass ratios) so you can figure out, with the vac bag materials you are using, what draw gives you what resin weight. Note that I've found the weight of my cloth to be a little different from the "nominal" weight, so weighing the cloth is important. Once you know what a given area weighs when you cut it off the roll, you can then calculate how much glass is in your standard 6 ply 10x16 panel. Making it oversize then trimming ensures you actually have 6 plies all the way to the edge.
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  #25  
Old 04-22-2007, 10:13 PM
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Thanks Craig.
Well I was not as productive in the areas I was hoping for this weekend but I did manage to improve my workarea.

I finished up my glass cabinet. Put legs and formica on my cutting table (with contact cement.) Put in a Goldenrod (tm) dehumidifier in the cabinet and have it stocked with lots of glass. My cabinet is 12"x42"x72" but the lid exceeds the top by 2 feet. By the time you get the stiffeners and legs on there it's a bit much to raise and lower so I added a pulley to help control the transition from closed to open and vise versa.

I also took some time to make a couple of enhancements on my assembly/layup table. I wired it with 5 outlets so I won't have to bother with running down an extension cord. I also wired in a vacuum switch to one of the outlets that will be used for my vaccuum pump.

I plumbed my table with a 1/2 black pipe that has 5 connect points that I can plug into for my vacuum bagging layups. Everything is controlled by the vacuum switch which I have tuned in at 15 inHg for a base to start from (thanks again Craig.)

I'm going to add a shelf to hold all of my vacuum bagging stuff (instead of propping it in the corner.)

So, while I didn't get my bukheads built this weekend, hopefully what I did do will make for a long term gain.

Regroup and take another run at it.
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  #26  
Old 04-22-2007, 11:28 PM
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13-14" on my PVC parts without a problem. I would recommend checking the measurement a few times during the cure of each layup until you are certain that the combination of leaks/auto self-sealing stabilizes (unless you have some type of vacuum auto-regulating type device). In other words, you don't want to walk away from the bag and have it develop a leak, dropping your vacuum, nor do you want what was a leak to stop itself off and increase your vacuum.

Also pay strict attention to shop/substrate/resin temperatures. When things are warmer, you may find more resin in your bleeder (and less in your layup), and vice versa.
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  #27  
Old 04-23-2007, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
In other words, you don't want to walk away from the bag and have it develop a leak, dropping your vacuum, nor do you want what was a leak to stop itself off and increase your vacuum.
Yeah......I put in a vacuum switch this weekend to cover that.
I'm also building a heat enclosure with an electric baseboard heater in it to better control the cure temperature.
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2007, 12:32 AM
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I'm also building a heat enclosure with an electric baseboard heater in it to better control the cure temperature.
I was thinking about an enclosure for cure, my basement chills down at night after the heating kicks out for the night... but then I just picked up a queen size electic blanket, draped it over my last layup (just over top the vac bag), worked like a charm. All the regulation you need built right in.
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  #29  
Old 04-24-2007, 08:20 AM
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Great tip Craig! That will take up a lot less space than my solution.
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  #30  
Old 04-24-2007, 08:45 AM
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Bagging aside you need to know what constitutes a web or dry layup.. Putting a bag over parts that are soaked in epoxy is not a free pass. Do a lay up and have someone look at it. Practice the squeege

The temperature tips are your best. Warm cures vs cold. Unless you work at this full time, you have a couple of years ahead of you. Cut foam and do non structural stuff in the colder months and lay up in the summer. I waited through a winter to do the wings in July. It was 95 in the garage. I used minimal epoxy which soaked right in.

My 2 cents worth
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