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Old 03-01-2007, 11:00 AM
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Default Turbo shielding

So, as most of us agree, turbos and the exhaust pipes leading up to them are HOT. They should be shielded for all three types of heat transfer, radiant (infra-red), convective and conduction.

conduction is not bad - just don't let it touch
convective, a little harder - channel the hot air away
Radiant is the pain - if something can "see" the 1400F+ heat from a piston system or the 1800F+ heat from a rotary - it is cooked.

So what is a good material, do they make a SS sandwich which is efficient and light?
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Old 03-01-2007, 11:29 AM
cptomes cptomes is offline
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Radiant barriers don't have to be thick. Foil separated by some heat-resistant media should do it.

Maybe some stainless steel?
http://cgi.ebay.com/19797-stainless-...QQcmdZViewItem

I've been looking for an excuse to try this stuff. 550F max temp though. Possibly use it as a primer inside the cowling? If the cowling surface gets anywhere near that hot the epoxy will fail.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=268-232

Wait...

Has anyone tried anything like this as a primer for the structure? An insulating primer might reduce the need for all-white colors chemes... I wonder if vacuum (probably just very low pressure inert gas?) microspheres are available not in the latex paint, but in bulk?
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:53 PM
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Thats basically why I started hanging around with metal gurus to learn metal shaping and forming (there's a difference) accomplished through shrinking, stretching and arranging it. Our thoughts are to maintain an air gap and use a small scoop to provide blast air in the gap.
Anybody have some real idea about what would be an appropriate air gap?
I was hoping to use aluminum where possible and stainless at others. We will do a lot of test stand running to evaluate this as well.
...Chrissi
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Anybody have some real idea about what would be an appropriate air gap?
I use the stock mazda heat shield around the turbo. It's steel (of some sort) with a fiberfrax liner held in place with steel mesh welded around the edges. The clearance around the turbo is a small as 1/2 inch in places. The stock shield is extended with 18 gauge sheet stainless bent into an oval and welded onto the edge of the stock shield. Since the back end is an (rudimentary) exhaust augmentor and the back (i.e. forward) part of the heat shield is open to the cowl pressure, there's airflow past the turbo and out the back. Buly's system was similar before he removed the turbo. Seems to work so far.
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Old 04-24-2008, 11:05 AM
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Default Re: Turbo shielding

Asked a turbo expert, yeah a real one on what to use for shielding, here is his answer

Quote:
301 is the common stuff for aircraft useage but the type does not matter in this instance. Yes, weld on tabs or in some tight fit areas, I've drilled small holes in it a run heavy SS lockwire through it to secure. Usually use .016-.020.
Quote:
Stainless is best with fiberfrax or similar ceramic batting on other side if up against composites. 1/2 inch airspace is fine with stainless in most cases. Depends a lot on application. I us the silicone sheet with foil on one side against cowlings or engine mount tubes. Ok to 1000F.
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