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  #1  
Old 03-20-2007, 11:54 PM
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Erick Erick is offline
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Default First Cozy Parts

here are some photos of what I have done so far, chapter 4 and some of 5.. Just thought some people might like to see that even a newbie can build. Sorry the pics are large I need some good photo software to resize them.
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2007, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erick View Post
here are some photos of what I have done so far, chapter 4 and some of 5.. Just thought some people might like to see that even a newbie can build. Sorry the pics are large I need some good photo software to resize them.
it looks like you did as i did.
and i still lick...i mean kick my self for it every time i think about how long i spent sanding and cutting just to end up with a poor finished edge.
sorry to see this.
IMO, if i had a re-do (and i don't) id temp-router from the start.
it is so fast and clean. the cost you ask? 15.00 and i still and find a chuck of it some where.
all the time you spent cutting the foam, is all the time i spend total on the part. you will need to cut one side after layup 1 then re-cut side 2 on layup 2. both cuts will hack up the edge some what.
most don't show, but the ones that do
at some point I'll go back and file, grind, sand, fill them
i hope this long post will at the very lest persuade you to do a search for
pattern routing.
PS. the parts look good
i think you need to trim the seat back @ 45 under the longgeron cut out?
looks SQ in photo
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Old 03-21-2007, 12:22 AM
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one thing, when you cut the overall length of the fuz side run the tape on the outside of the foam/glass. some here have did it from the inside and ended up short, but that was 3 years ago and I'm in denial
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Old 03-21-2007, 12:37 AM
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Ok so to put this in my words...(Rob Right)

To make the bulk heads:

1. Make templates of the bulkheads using the fiberboard stuff that pegboards are usually made from. Use the paper template provided with the plans. Trace one side onto the fiberboard and then flip the paper over and trace the other side of the template. Cut the template out. Sand the template to precision.

2. Put the template on the foam. Draw on the foam around the edges of the template with a sharpie or some other drawing device. Leave about 1/4 inch extra foam around the edge of the template.

3. Cut out the bulkhead from the foam.

4. Cut the glass to the shape of the foam with a slight overlap.

4. Apply the micro epoxy mix to the foam.

5. While the foam is still wet with the micro epoxy from step 4 apply your glass.

6. Apply the correct amount of epoxy needed to wet out the cloth and spread it out.

7. Put down your peel ply where it’s needed.

8. Put your plastic sheet over that.

9. Use a hair dryer and a squeegee to remove air bubbles and excess epoxy.

10. When the bulkhead is cured peel off the plastic and peel and ply.

11. Put the template from step 1 back on the piece and use a router to trim to precision.

is that the way it goes?
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve parkins View Post
i think you need to trim the seat back @ 45 under the longgeron cut out?
looks SQ in photo
Not exactly sure what you are referring to? If its what I think your looking at then yes its just the pic cause all the cutouts are at a 45* angle. Of course all the bulkheads have been trimmed and cleaned up now.
I was hoping to start jigging up my fuse sides and bulkheads Friday then I realized there are 3 more steps of curing before I can do that each curing phase takes a day…..
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:10 AM
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Default power plant

here is one of my 20b waiting for a home plus a pic of my helper
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve parkins View Post
i hope this long post will at the very lest persuade you to do a search for
pattern routing.
Nice work Erick!

I have to second Steve's comment about pattern routing. I built my first part the plans way, then tried the template method and haven't looked back. It's just a better way to do it. Perfect symmetry, and if you screw something up, you can throw away a cheap peice of $5 MDF with much less heartache than an expensive sheet of foam. Not sure who gets credit for coming up with this, but I first read about it in one of Dust's posts.

There's a detailed description with photos of the method in my build log, the page in question is: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages...2006-12-26.pdf
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2007, 10:46 AM
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Nice work Erick!, canoe pictures soon? You will be on gear before osh.
...Chrissi
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2007, 03:54 PM
cptomes cptomes is offline
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Quote:
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here is one of my 20b waiting for a home plus a pic of my helper
Hmmm...

how much?
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:13 PM
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cptomes, Sorry I love my schnauzer way to much to sell him. plus I am kinda fond of the 20b, although I have many years before I will be doing anything with it..
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:02 PM
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cptomes, Sorry I love my schnauzer way to much to sell him. plus I am kinda fond of the 20b, although I have many years before I will be doing anything with it..
Ahhhhhh...

I forgot "new home" has more than one meaning, of course!
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2007, 09:36 PM
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Default 20b

Erick,

A lot of times these engines get a little water/antifreeze in the cylinders when they are removed from the car. It will destroy the engine. Insure there is none or you will be crying later.

Bob
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2007, 10:26 PM
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Bob, I will check into that thanks for the heads up
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  #14  
Old 03-21-2007, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
A lot of times these engines get a little water/antifreeze in the cylinders when they are removed from the car. It will destroy the engine.
Bob's right. This can even happen to brand new Renesis engines from Mazda. I saw one at Bruce's shop when I was there. He was cleaning out the rust.

If it were me I'd send it to Bruce Turrentine soon, have him give it a mild port and new RWS seals, check it to spec and make the minor mods needed, then seal it up ready to sit in the garage until needed. OK - it might cost a few thousand for him to do the work. A very small percentage of your overall investment for a functionally crucial part. I'm all for saving money where possible, but in this case I think its worth paying the expert.

You could also remove some of the accessories and sell them off on ebay to help with cozy build (or engine rebuild) costs. Keep the alternator and starter. Most of the rest probably wont be useful to you. You could ask the 20B users on fly-rotary for advice on this.
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  #15  
Old 03-22-2007, 12:28 AM
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I agree with John, send it to Bruce.
The good news is the e-shaft is going to be in good shape, almost everything else is replaceable.
..Chrissi
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