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  #16  
Old 10-02-2006, 03:10 PM
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my gap is 1/16 OVER plans size, i like oversized gaps, stops any possible movement problems
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  #17  
Old 10-02-2006, 10:17 PM
Wayne Hicks Wayne Hicks is offline
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Huh? Please decode. What gap?
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2006, 10:58 PM
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All of the control surfaces are supposed to have a gap between the rest of the flight surface or in the case of the elevator inside, the fuselage.
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Enjoy the build,njut av byggandet, godere il costruire, nyd bygningen, geniesse den Bau, apolafse tin kataskevi, disfrute la construcción, curta a construção, Pidä hauskaa rakentamisen parissa, bouw lekker,uživaj grade?inaslajdaites postroikoi, geniet die bou
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  #19  
Old 10-16-2006, 11:38 AM
rnbraud rnbraud is offline
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Default Now or Later; that is the question!

Hello Wayne and all,

I am going to finish my Chap. 10 canard this coming weekend. Since the surface finish of the layups on the canard are a lil rough, I definitely want to try out Wayne's wonderful canard contouring tool thingy.

The question is, do I do this now, or later when the canard is closer to installation? It will be a long while before I wil be installing the canard and/or finishing it up and was curious if I should wait til then, or go ahead and "shape" it now while I have the jigs and all.

Thanks.
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  #20  
Old 10-16-2006, 11:51 AM
Wayne Hicks Wayne Hicks is offline
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Finishing the canard now is one of those 6 of 1, half dozen of the other arguments:

(1) The "roughness" of the canard won't keep you from continuing the build. If you don't feel like finishing now, press with the build.

(2) The canard is easier to contour without the canard cover in place. However, you'll have to remove some of the micro to get down to the glass when you install and glass the canard cover. Then you'll be filling in and recontouring that small section.

(3) From the math point of view, it doesn't matter if you contour now or wait until later. From the psychological point of view, the more contouring you do now, the less you have to do in Chapter 25. They don't call Chapter 25 "the wall" for nothing.
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  #21  
Old 10-16-2006, 12:09 PM
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My canard cover is separate from the canard, part of the forward access hatch
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  #22  
Old 10-16-2006, 12:17 PM
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Default Huh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust View Post
My canard cover is separate from the canard, part of the forward access hatch
Huh? Interesting. Any pics to look at?
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  #23  
Old 10-16-2006, 12:19 PM
rnbraud rnbraud is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Hicks View Post
Finishing the canard now is one of those 6 of 1, half dozen of the other arguments:

(1) The "roughness" of the canard won't keep you from continuing the build. If you don't feel like finishing now, press with the build.

(2) The canard is easier to contour without the canard cover in place. However, you'll have to remove some of the micro to get down to the glass when you install and glass the canard cover. Then you'll be filling in and recontouring that small section.

(3) From the math point of view, it doesn't matter if you contour now or wait until later. From the psychological point of view, the more contouring you do now, the less you have to do in Chapter 25. They don't call Chapter 25 "the wall" for nothing.
Thanks Wayne. That's pretty much what I thought. My initial concern was to store the canard and contour later. That way the canard would "stabilize" over time and the contouring would be more accurate at the end.

By stabilize I don't mean major changes, I am referring to the surface not the structure.

Later.
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2006, 10:16 AM
rnbraud rnbraud is offline
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Default Didn't get to it yet

Hello Wayne, and all,

Well I haven't gotten to contouring my canard yet, family got in the way.

I am going to try again this weekend.

Just curious, you mentioned you cut your contouring block oversize to account for the thickness of the sandpaper.

If you don't do this, wouldn't the sandpaper just ride a lil higher on the canard while sanding? If not, how much oversize did you cut your contouring block?

Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2006, 11:41 AM
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the le and te would be cut to short
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edited by steve for a good reason
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2006, 12:16 PM
rnbraud rnbraud is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve parkins View Post
the le and te would be cut to short
Thanks Steve. I see the light now.

Then, how much oversize: 1/16", 1/8"?

Guess it depends on the sandpaper.
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  #27  
Old 11-03-2006, 12:32 PM
Wayne Hicks Wayne Hicks is offline
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I traced the G template onto the sanding block. Then cut slight outside of the line. By the time you add the sand paper, it's just about right. The trailing edge of the sanding block doesn't match the T.E. of the canard. I think I cut in an extra gap of about a quarter inch on purpose. If the sanding block were an exact fit leading edge to trailing edge, you wouldn't be able to slide it back and forth without the block "locking up" and jamming.
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