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  #16  
Old 08-25-2006, 12:21 PM
Glos Glos is offline
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Wayne

I have attached the PDF data sheet on Centari. I can only relate to my own experiences but the very original coat from PPG showed no signs of problems from solvents. I even had the weeping fuel check valve one winter and when I came to discover it, there was a blue stain where it ran down. A coat of cleaner wax cleaned this up.

Then we had three years of a fuel boy whose name should have been Murphy.
I think he put more fuel on the stake than in it. You know the type, can't pull the nozzel out without spilling it.

Dust

" How bout where the wing changes direction at about the end of the spar? I've seen cracks there once, that I am sure of."

No never had cracks there or on top of any of the flying surfaces

"Add the plasticizer to it all?"

Yes, when I mixed the paint added the flex agents

"Do you plasticize the primer?"

Good point but I did not use Imron primer. I used a filler/sealer/primer that was not hydroscopic. No way I wanted another featherfill scenerio. It was a two part mix. The f/s/p was not the problem. I never put on more than 10 to 15 mils thick.

The way I know this is that I used a dremel tool and carefully routed away the cracks down to the surface of the glass. The cracks will go as deep as the micro is built up.

I apologise for dominating this thread intended for paint questions so I hope this information is usefull.
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  #17  
Old 08-25-2006, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glos
I apologise for dominating this thread intended for paint questions so I hope this information is usefull.
APOLOGIZE for giving great info, backed by years of experience!!! NAW, it is I that thank you for your time. Ger rev ma agut, thank you in irish gaelic

My plan is forming, 2+2 is adding up to 4

Thick micro = cracks

micro where there is flex = cracks

Flex = cracks

I am familiar with finishing as in the wood working I do, when a full gloss is needed by the piece, for a fine, delicate, no color added I use laquer. fill grain with grain filler, squeege off and wet sand with mineral spirits to 220. Spray with Laquer sanding filler, sand with 220 to glass smooth and use just enough to leave the thinest continious layer, then 3 coats of laquer, sand to 220, 3 more coats, sand 220, 320, 400, 600, 1500, 2500, 3500, 6000 then polish with polishing compound.

if i need a tough surface - same procedure except with varnish
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dust

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  #18  
Old 08-25-2006, 03:52 PM
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John Slade John Slade is offline
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I used the ppg primer - excellent. For gloss I used the Ranthane Polyfiber gave me. Also excellent. I'm doing some "touch up" work right now and repainting one wheel pant (dont ask) and the Ranthane goes on very well. Dries to a high gloss even with my inferior painting skills and equipment. Ranthane is considerably less expensive than ppg. I can't comment on how well it wears, but it seems like nice paint.
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  #19  
Old 08-25-2006, 05:02 PM
SteveWrightNZ SteveWrightNZ is offline
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design your stripes/artwork on your peecee, and get the local signwriter to cut it out of vinyl for you. Get him to apply it too, just because its easy to fugger it up.


S
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  #20  
Old 08-25-2006, 07:05 PM
Joe Berki Joe Berki is offline
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I am going to try PPG Omni. I will shoot primer on the canard tomorrow and will keep you posted.

Joe Berki
Limo EZ
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  #21  
Old 08-26-2006, 04:18 AM
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karoliina karoliina is offline
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I would need to now paint Star's lower cowling. I have been looking for car paint stores nearby. There is only one which sells DuPoint but no PPG (and there are some others which sell less prominent brands). Do they usually sell lower quantities of the paint for e.g. painting a cowling only (it will take years before I would be painting the Cozy?). Sorry my dumbness but I haven't ever visited a car paint store yet. Or maybe me (my dumbness) must go there and do some uneducated newbies questions showing that I have no idea how to use the paint...
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2006, 09:43 AM
kjashton kjashton is offline
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I've painted two canard airplanes with Dupont's Nason brand acrylic urethane. It's cheaper because Jeff Gordon doesn't run a NASON race car. Not as cosmic as Imron or Jet-glo, I suppose, but it holds up very well, sticks like crazy, can be polished-out. It has some flexibility because when the leftover paint cures, it feel like a piece of hard rubber. I use the stock white color so I never have to worry about color matching. It has held up well in outside storage
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  #23  
Old 08-26-2006, 11:23 PM
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mmm - well, quarts are common, i would not doubt that pints are also readily available. Just go in and take the cowl that YOU modified with you and ask for assistance, after their jaws drop to the floor at seeing your work, they will stumble all over themselves helping you out
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Enjoy the build,njut av byggandet, godere il costruire, nyd bygningen, geniesse den Bau, apolafse tin kataskevi, disfrute la construcción, curta a construção, Pidä hauskaa rakentamisen parissa, bouw lekker,uživaj grade?inaslajdaites postroikoi, geniet die bou
dust

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  #24  
Old 08-28-2006, 05:51 PM
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karoliina karoliina is offline
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LOL. Well, it is not that cool looking with all the phenolic and glass microballs - looks like somebody would have spilled melted chocolate icecream on it...

Just finished sanding scim coat and then applying yet another scim coat. And then I noticed that still there are holes in the surface (despite of microing efforts). Yet another scim coat (with cabosil equivalent - I love that stuff, epoxy never runs with it). Not painted yet in other words, just filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling... I hope to get the final sanding done tomorrow. Even Kate came to do some sanding. She sanded at least 5 mintues (she is constantly frustrated even seeing me doing this sanding stuff (for hours) and says that we should build an RV instead).

Some senior man (a dog owner) came to see what I was doing on our frontyard (with gas mask (which is equipped with dust filter too - so I use it for sanding too) and an orbital sander) - I was sanding the cowling. You should have seen his facial expressions when I commented that this is a cooling modification for our airplane. "Oil was running a bit too hot when doing climbs to flight levels etc.". I managed also to add that it is not the only plane we are building, actually we are building another from scratch. .
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DISCLAIMER: This message was written in the hope that it will be useful, but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
--- Plans #000 at concepting stage ---
JAA-PPL(A) with NF & RT/E, UPL. WT9-Dynamic, TL-96 Star, Zephyr 2000, C152, C172 (& waiting the crashed diesel planes to get fixed )

Last edited by karoliina : 08-28-2006 at 06:02 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-28-2006, 06:30 PM
SteveWrightNZ SteveWrightNZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karoliina
You should have seen his facial expressions when I commented that this is a cooling modification for our airplane. "Oil was running a bit too hot when doing climbs to flight levels etc.". I managed also to add that it is not the only plane we are building, actually we are building another from scratch. .
BAHAHAHA, sounds like my Wife with her new Stihl chainsaw (well its getting a bit worn now), or rarking up the lake with the jetboat... Reeally gets the neighbourhood talking. Gotta love girls doing it for themselves.

S
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  #26  
Old 08-28-2006, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karoliina
Yet another scim coat (with cabosil equivalent - I love that stuff, epoxy never runs with it).
why cabosil and not micro? it be heavy and they be light
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dust

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  #27  
Old 08-29-2006, 09:09 AM
Wayne Hicks Wayne Hicks is offline
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Dust, I thought you were pulling my leg. But I guess it's true...you really DON'T read my website. When you do the skim coats on your vertical winglets, you'll figure out why she's using cabosil. It stops the runs.
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  #28  
Old 08-29-2006, 09:26 AM
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Dennis Passey Dennis Passey is offline
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Jack- I just went through these past posts on painting [ cuz I am so far away from this step] and found yours back there..I gotta say thanks for the paint lowdown from a professionals POV. That is the kind of info that provides just indisputable service here, and I definatly need to rathole this back in my brain fro when I get to that timeframe.
A big-as-Californeeia Thankyou to Yu!
[Not yet to be confused with a big Gracias- as there still are a few legal Californians motating around!]
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  #29  
Old 08-29-2006, 12:15 PM
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I agree with all Jack has to say in #13 as well. But if you're a newbie with paint, Centari is as easy as it gets. By the way it is Acrylic Enamel. No clear topcoat necessary and when cured it WILL resist solvents well. Jack may or may not agree but I find DuPont paint easier to work with than PPG when it comes to Acrylics or Laquers. I'll take Deltron over Imron though. I've used Fill n Sand with good success as well.

Urethanes? You betcha'! Color coat/clear coat system? Yes but don't expect to get good results in your backyard. You're going to get that dust or mosquito sealed between the coats forever. For touchup you need to do an entire area. Think of it as painting one side of glass then flipping it over and spraying the other. That's what a touchup looks like.

For success: Surface preparation is key. Don't blame the paint yet. Pick you paint and go backward for the proper primer/surfacers. Don't pick your primer because someone says it's the best. You're asking for trouble.
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  #30  
Old 08-29-2006, 04:18 PM
Buly Buly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Hicks
Dust, I thought you were pulling my leg. But I guess it's true...you really DON'T read my website. When you do the skim coats on your vertical winglets, you'll figure out why she's using cabosil. It stops the runs.
I made the mistake coating once my wings with cabosil. It is hard as a rock. Sanding was extremly difficult. Never used it again.
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