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  #31  
Old 10-09-2005, 12:47 PM
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Nice Cam, what model is it??

I use an Axis 205, It goes through two switches, to my Linux firewall (Smoothwall). The red side of my firewall is connected to my ISP via a wireless bridge.

I'm still trying to sort out connection problems. Seems right after I replaced my bridge, all the sudden people are having difficult time connecting to my camera. The connection comes in on port 8000 and the Smoothwall translates to port 80 on the Camera.

Waiter
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  #32  
Old 10-09-2005, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter
Nice Cam, what model is it??

I use an Axis 205, It goes through two switches, to my Linux firewall (Smoothwall). The red side of my firewall is connected to my ISP via a wireless bridge.

I'm still trying to sort out connection problems. Seems right after I replaced my bridge, all the sudden people are having difficult time connecting to my camera. The connection comes in on port 8000 and the Smoothwall translates to port 80 on the Camera.

Waiter

Mine is not quite as elegant... The cam in the hangar is an oooold QuickCam Pro (Beige focus ring... the discontinued/unsupported since win 98 one) running hacked NT drivers to make them work under 2k/XP. The software is WebcamXP doing an upload of a still jpeg every 20 seconds to my server, which is a dual ultrasparc-ii running freebsd. From there the connection is forwarded across a d-link wireless router (port 80 private ip to port 80 public).

I might eventually upgrade the camera to one of the newer 1.2 megapixel webcam varieties if i can find one for a decent price.... the other nice feature is that I can run up to 8 cams on the software... I might connect another cam I have into the hauppauge tuner card that is in the computer and hang it above the bench from the ceiling and have it uploading as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve parkins
Well i can say this, I'm just a bit joules of your building log.
i think its time start answering your questions,you must have a few by now?
Actually for the moment steve I'm pretty sure of myself and what I am doing... I've been lurking here for over 3 years now watching and reading John Slade and Marc's progress. My only questions are more ones that would have to be answered in person... like if a layup is good etc. I'm hoping to hook up with a Cozy builder and some of the local builders this week and I'll probably take some of my bulkheads with me for them to look over and comment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J Berki
Jon,
Glad to see progress. There a lot less Longs being started than Cozys. The mission for the two ACs ia similar but not exact. In the beginning you make a bunch of parts and try to find places to store them. Later, you try to find the parts and assemble them into one part.
Most definatly. Storage won't be too much of an issue. I have a huge shop, if the door was large enough you could easily park a KingAir 200 in there. I'm currently only using about 1/4 of it.. at most I'll probably use 1/2 when the plane is standing on its own legs with the wings on.
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  #33  
Old 10-10-2005, 03:55 AM
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Soooo, ummm, is using too much micro on the foam before glassing an issue that warrents throwing away the section? I took the rather liberal amount of micro part of the plans literally and I used it to the point that it appears that the foam is whitish blue below the fibreglass, and I cant even see where I wrote on the foam with marker.

I did the next bulkhead more carefully and just used enough micro to fill the foam but not frost the cake so to speak. It is getting lo-vac'd as we speak. We shall see if the girrrls are going to disown me tommorow for my misue and abuse of their system.

Oh, and my florescent night time lighting tried to burn the shop down... good thing I was here when it started heating up and smelled it. So, no more viewing the webcam while the lights are off til I can replace the ballast in it.
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  #34  
Old 10-10-2005, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Soooo, ummm, is using too much micro on the foam before glassing an issue that warrents throwing away the section? I took the rather liberal amount of micro part of the plans literally and I used it to the point that it appears that the foam is whitish blue
No problem, Jon. Most seatbacks are that color. You'll always get a bit of mixing of the micro and the fresh epoxy to cause that. Just use a "liberal amount" of micro to fill all the pores, scrape as much of it off as you can, then add the first ply without painting the micro with fresh epoxy. Paint warm epoxy over the fiberglass and perhaps use a little less epoxy. Just enough to wet it out.

The main thing to watch out for on early layups is too little epoxy (white areas) or too much epoxy (heavy). You probably made the micro a little too thin. The bigger the holes (grain) in the foam, the thicker the micro needs to be. For the seatback, make it almost like cake frosting. Experiment with the micro thickness and amount of epoxy as you move along. By the time you get to critical stuff you'll have it down pat.
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  #35  
Old 10-19-2005, 12:03 AM
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Well, I just made a really really costly mistake. I layed up the F22 bulkhead and did not notice that epoxy seeped under it. When I went to pull it up off the table, I sawed gently underneath most of it with a hacksaw blade and then pulled, unfortunatly a good sized chunk of it was still glued to the table and pulled off and another section delaminated. I guess I pulled a bit too hard.

Why could it not have been the seatback? Why does it have to be the part that is made out of a $100 sheet of foam.
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  #36  
Old 10-19-2005, 11:25 AM
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WAX the bench. we have a sacrificial 1/8th hard board on the bench and we WAx it with Johnson's paste wax. No silicones.

makes bench easy to clean and easy to occasionally replace.

We also have plastic coated butcher paper - 1100 foot rolls for about 30 bucks - do all layups on it
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maker of wood, fiberglass, foam dust, metal bits and one day a Cozy will pop out and swiftly whisk me from meeting old friends and family to adventures throughout the world

Last edited by Dust : 10-19-2005 at 12:51 PM.
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  #37  
Old 10-19-2005, 12:05 PM
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BELT SANDER
keeps the bench "fresh looking" and we are still on our original 1/8 masonite overlay.
When we were going to make an exceptionally large mess with center spar, wings, canard etc we'd get the 32" roll of pallet wrap film and put two strips of it over the whole bench. Cost is next to nothing.
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  #38  
Old 06-23-2006, 06:22 PM
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I've finally started working again. The first fuselage side is cut... 115" long. I'm waiting on an order of Longeron material so that I have enough to put them in place.

I also will need to re-do the rear seat bulkhead as the landing gear is going to have to come forward of the spar a bit. (~3-4" as a guess, maybe less). The rear passenger will still get 8" more leg room, so I don't expect to hear any complaints from the rear. They might even get an Dynon EFIS display and rudder pedals if I'm feeling generous at that point

Once the fuse tub is done I'm going to probably have a long task ahead of me, as I'm going to design my own Swing/Drybread style gear system for the plane as the Velo units will be too big, and the Drybread legs/linkages are no-longer available. Anyone that has any experience making S-glass roving gear legs, your insight/experience would be appreciated.

I've also decided to re-name the plane as it is no-longer a Long. For the moment it is called a CA55 until I can think of a better name. If anyone has any suggestions I'll take them.
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  #39  
Old 06-23-2006, 11:00 PM
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do you have a set of plans for the gear? i will help you do it so we can make 3 sets(sell one) .
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  #40  
Old 06-24-2006, 01:24 AM
Lynn Erickson Lynn Erickson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonC
I've finally started working again. The first fuselage side is cut... 115" long. I'm waiting on an order of Longeron material so that I have enough to put them in place.

I also will need to re-do the rear seat bulkhead as the landing gear is going to have to come forward of the spar a bit. (~3-4" as a guess, maybe less). The rear passenger will still get 8" more leg room, so I don't expect to hear any complaints from the rear. They might even get an Dynon EFIS display and rudder pedals if I'm feeling generous at that point

Once the fuse tub is done I'm going to probably have a long task ahead of me, as I'm going to design my own Swing/Drybread style gear system for the plane as the Velo units will be too big, and the Drybread legs/linkages are no-longer available. Anyone that has any experience making S-glass roving gear legs, your insight/experience would be appreciated.

I've also decided to re-name the plane as it is no-longer a Long. For the moment it is called a CA55 until I can think of a better name. If anyone has any suggestions I'll take them.
You may want to contact the guy in this thread for help on the Drybread gear. I worked on the Drybread gear installed in john Graves Long eze and found it to be very simple and it always worked. it is a good solution for the long.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canard...sage/32794?l=1
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Much better with a Dremel than a computer.
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  #41  
Old 06-24-2006, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve parkins
do you have a set of plans for the gear? i will help you do it so we can make 3 sets(sell one) .
Steve,

It wont fit a Cozy without modification. You are better off just buying the Velocity gear.

However, if I do manage to make a system that I am totally comfortable with I might consider selling it as a retrofit for a Long or Vari. However I most likely will not go into covering a Cozy/AeroCanard as the Velo gear should fit it just fine. Time will tell.
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  #42  
Old 06-24-2006, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Erickson
You may want to contact the guy in this thread for help on the Drybread gear. I worked on the Drybread gear installed in john Graves Long eze and found it to be very simple and it always worked. it is a good solution for the long.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canard...sage/32794?l=1
Lynn,

Unfortunatly it is not the mechanics of it I need help with, its the actual making of the gear legs. I have not even a clue as to the process used to turn roving into a gear leg. However, he is rather close being in Indy and I'm up there quite often, so I might see if he would allow me to either get dimensions off his gear legs or even better, make a mold of one.
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  #43  
Old 06-24-2006, 01:02 PM
Lynn Erickson Lynn Erickson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonC
Lynn,

Unfortunatly it is not the mechanics of it I need help with, its the actual making of the gear legs. I have not even a clue as to the process used to turn roving into a gear leg. However, he is rather close being in Indy and I'm up there quite often, so I might see if he would allow me to either get dimensions off his gear legs or even better, make a mold of one.
I beleive the legs are made using a mold which is a chanel with three sides and the wet roving is laid in the channel the length of the leg. I made my legs in this way but used strips of uni carbon laid in the mold with every other ply crossing at a 10 degree angle to the other. It is about 150 carbon plys thick and 5 plys of bi-directional around the legs
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This is my opinion of these facts and only my opinion, your opinion may vary

Lynn Erickson A&P for lets say almost 30 years
Much better with a Dremel than a computer.
What if they gave me choice between a fast computer or a fast plane?
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  #44  
Old 06-24-2006, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Erickson
I beleive the legs are made using a mold which is a chanel with three sides and the wet roving is laid in the channel the length of the leg. I made my legs in this way but used strips of uni carbon laid in the mold with every other ply crossing at a 10 degree angle to the other. It is about 150 carbon plys thick and 5 plys of bi-directional around the legs
Yeah, that is about what I was expecting to hear. Basically a lot of time and work. Shall be an experience.
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  #45  
Old 06-30-2006, 08:44 PM
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Fuselage sides are cut and ready to be glassed. I just need to figure out where I'm going to move the rear seat to in order to make room for the gear. I'm leaning toward making the rear seat not-so-structural and adding a flange with nutplates it mounts to so that I can just remove it when I need to get to the gear instead of having to snake a wrench in there, etc.

There will be stringers added (ala Velocity) to transmit the loads of the gear to the fuselage and spar, so I'm not too concerned about not having the rear-seat adding stiffness back there.

I've pretty much decided that on the gear I'm going to cut and laminate some plywood together to make a prototype set of gear, non-flyable of course, so that I can just cut, sand until I get a shape that works. If I screw up I can just glue some wood back on and recut. Once that is done I can make molds from them and away we go!

I'll probably also make my own nose strut as I'm already making my own mains.

Its becoming more and more fun already.
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