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  #31  
Old 04-30-2007, 09:27 AM
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Well it looks like the Sticky stuff pump I have isn't going to work for my epoxy. It's one of the older type and looks to be a real pain to adjust to the 5:1 ratio I'm going to need. I have the metering pumps from West to get me by in the meantime so we'll see.
I picked up a hand held hotwire tool this winter and was able to use it on my seatback bulkheads. Very nice clean cut. It has a 6 inch wire for cutting and does a nice job of it.
I'm planning on being on Chapter five by this time next week.
We'll see. My boys (18 & 24) are showing some interest in the project (my wife ....... not so much ) so I might have all the help I need shortly.
I see that we have a new Long-EZ builder starting up. That's good for me! I thought I was the only one that sat on these plans for that Long. Hmmmmm ............. maybe that's what put the "Long" in my Long-EZ.
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  #32  
Old 04-30-2007, 12:28 PM
Lynn Erickson Lynn Erickson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMann View Post
I picked up a hand held hotwire tool this winter and was able to use it on my seatback bulkheads. Very nice clean cut. It has a 6 inch wire for cutting and does a nice job of it.
I hope that means that you are making the seat back bulkhead out of styrofoam ( polystyrene foam ) as this is the only foam that is safe to cut with a hot wire.
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  #33  
Old 04-30-2007, 12:31 PM
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Yep....medium density blue ....per plans.
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  #34  
Old 04-30-2007, 01:25 PM
Lynn Erickson Lynn Erickson is offline
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Well it looks like the Sticky stuff pump I have isn't going to work for my epoxy. It's one of the older type and looks to be a real pain to adjust to the 5:1 ratio I'm going to need. I have the metering pumps from West to get me by in the meantime so we'll see.
are you using west 105 for structural parts ?
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Much better with a Dremel than a computer.
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  #35  
Old 04-30-2007, 02:14 PM
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Yes, That is the same epoxy I received in the rutan training kit. It is currently listed as an approved epoxy.
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  #36  
Old 04-30-2007, 07:00 PM
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Yep....medium density blue ....per plans.
the seat is pvc blue, right ? and cant be cut with hot wire
the wings are blue styrofoam and can be cut .

what is your seat again ?
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  #37  
Old 04-30-2007, 08:02 PM
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that wasn't my point, i was thinking you were going to use the wrong foam for the seat. as for the poison from cutting you are a test pilot
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  #38  
Old 04-30-2007, 08:46 PM
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It's 3#,DIVINYCELL from Wicks which is in the chapter 4 kit.
My understanding is that the urethane foam is the only one you can't cut with a hotwire. Am I wrong about that?
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  #39  
Old 04-30-2007, 10:35 PM
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It's 3#,DIVINYCELL from Wicks which is in the chapter 4 kit.
My understanding is that the urethane foam is the only one you can't cut with a hotwire. Am I wrong about that?
the blue is bad as well, but you'll have to give it a sniff to be sure........
yes the Div is the right stuff.
i floxed mine(i was new) and boy is it tuff
i just put on a coat of mico over the t/b,g/w and the two widows that will be part of your canopy, big spread.
i'll need to untape the windows in 2 hours and cut out the canopy and gull wing in 4 then lite sand in 9-12. 12 will be when i get up

hurry, you right behind me !
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  #40  
Old 05-01-2007, 12:04 AM
Marc Zeitlin Marc Zeitlin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMann View Post
It's 3#,DIVINYCELL from Wicks which is in the chapter 4 kit.
My understanding is that the urethane foam is the only one you can't cut with a hotwire. Am I wrong about that?
No, you are correct. While it is OK to cut the Divinycell with a hotwire cutter, it's rarely done, because the DC is almost always used in sheet form, and cut with a saw or knife. It's just not necessary to use a HW saw.

DC is PVC foam and does not give off the isocyanates that the Urethane foam does when burned.
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  #41  
Old 05-01-2007, 12:13 AM
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thank you marc, i think i new that but its funner my way
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  #42  
Old 05-01-2007, 09:26 AM
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Marc, thanks for clearing that up. While it was not necessary to hotwire the pieces, it was an opportunity to try out the handheld 6" hotwire tool. I found it on a site for modelling foam. I think it's will show it full potential when it come to carving the nose.

Again, thanks for the feedback. While mis-information may seem funny......it is of no value to me.
T Mann
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Last edited by TMann : 05-01-2007 at 02:19 PM.
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  #43  
Old 05-02-2007, 01:29 PM
Marc Zeitlin Marc Zeitlin is offline
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...Well it looks like the Sticky stuff pump I have isn't going to work for my epoxy. It's one of the older type and looks to be a real pain to adjust to the 5:1 ratio I'm going to need.....
I've had this statement rattling around inside my head for the past week or so, and never responded to it. Your statement that you need a 5:1 ratio indicates that you're planning on using either the 205 or 206 hardeners for the West 105 resin.

As has been stated on all the mailing lists and fora, in the COZY, CSA and CP newsletters, and just about anywhere else that an interested person would care to research, neither the 205 or 206 hardeners are approved (or have ever BEEN approved) for structural use on any RAF derivative aircraft. ONLY the 209 hardener is approved, and it has a mix ratio of 3:1.
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  #44  
Old 05-02-2007, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aicraft Spruce
WEST SYSTEM brand resins and hardeners, form a two-part epoxy system developed by Gougeon Brothers specifically for wood and composite boat construction. Rutan Aircraft Factory now recommends WEST SYSTEM epoxy for certain homebuilt aircraft applications, particularly where a moisture resistant epoxy is desired. 105 Resin is the base material on which all of the WEST SYSTEM epoxy systems are built. The resin is a clear, light amber, low-viscosity liquid. It is designed specifically to wet out wood fiber. With roller applications, it possesses excellent thin film characteristics in flowing out and is self-leveling without fish-eyeing. Its relatively high flash point makes it safer to work with than polyesters. It can be cured in a wide temperature range, then sanded and shaped. It cures quite clear so that the natural finish shines through. 205 Fast Hardener, when mixed with the 105 Resin in a ratio of 5 parts Resin to 1 part Hardener, yields a high-strength, rigid solid with excellent cohesive properties and provides an excellent moisture vapor barrier.
The 206 is the only hardener offered for slow cure. The 209 is a 'Tropical' hardener. This is the same hardener/epoxy combination that I received with my Practice Kit (hence the reason I stuck with it.) Are you telling me that ACS is shipping a substandard/ un-approved resin system with the RAF Practice Kit?

Tell me now on account of the fact that I haven't broken the seal on this yet.
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  #45  
Old 05-02-2007, 02:22 PM
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yep - the 209 is da stuff all right, just used some last weekend to fix a chair i made my daughter.

It is the slowest of the west system and not nearly as slow as mgs slow. When I bought mine at the local boat repair shop - they thought i was nuts for wanting the sloooooooooooooooooow stuff. I use it for woodworking, when i needs long assembly time. Will also use it for filling.

I think i would send it back and ask for them to pay shipping
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